Robert Wun brings haute couture vision to Hong Kong Ballet’s Martlet

Robert Wun is known for sculptural evening wear and architectural silhouettes that have graced red carpets worn by Adele and Jennie. Yet in April, the Hong Kong designer found himself in a dance studio at the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, preparing costumes for something entirely different: Martlet, a section of Hong Kong Ballet's latest production Glam Rock.

The shift marks a rare moment when Wun's creations will adorn dancers rather than runway models. For those familiar with his haute couture vocabulary—sharp structures, bold forms, theatrical drama—the pivot to ballet might seem incongruous. Dance demands fluidity and lightness, qualities that seem distant from Wun's signature aesthetic.

Wun, however, rejects this binary. "People find it interesting that this is so different from what I usually do, as if my work can only fit inside one box, must have structure, must be dramatic and geometric," he explained during a Tatler shoot. "But that limitation was never mine. People placed a boundary on my design language, when I never saw one myself."

This openness extends to Martlet itself. The piece draws deeply from Hong Kong culture, using music by local rock band Beyond and taking its name from a mythical bird that flies without rest—a concept referenced in Wong Kar-wai's 1990 film Days of Being Wild. Born and raised in Hong Kong, Wun found particular resonance in this story.

Wong's cinema has long shaped Wun's creative sensibility, especially The Grandmaster, released in 2013 around the time the designer was establishing his brand. "I've always felt how he portrays femininity in his films," Wun said. "That's our perspective, our culture, and a very particular romantic sensibility—rather than framing everything within Western ideas of beauty." The film's poetic language, imagery and dialogue structure captivated him at a pivotal moment. "Everything is very poetic. You have to grow up from that culture, speak that language, to truly understand it. The film came out exactly when I was searching for my own language."

Wun's trajectory has been deliberate. After graduating from London College of Fashion in 2012, his graduation collection was quickly acquired by Joyce Boutique in Hong Kong. Lady Gaga purchased two pairs of his shoes and became a long-term supporter. The Hunger Games: Mockingjay – Part 2 costume team commissioned him for the 2015 film. In 2023, he became the first Hong Kong designer to show at Paris Haute Couture Week, solidifying his international standing.

Now, with Martlet, Wun continues expanding his creative language on his own terms, unbounded by the categories others might impose.